Chateau Montelena Still Reigns

What does one do on a cool Northern California winter weekday? Well, go wine tasting of course!

Having recently re-watched the entertaining film Bottle Shock, my partner Christian and I were enticed to visit Chateau Montelena, just north of Calistoga in the world famous Napa Valley wine region.

Upon arrival, our first viewing of the grand stone building, surrounded by winter’s dormant grapevines, did indeed look like a movie set, or perhaps a beautiful dream, as if we’ve been transported to the Bordeaux region of France.

We are graciously welcomed as we check in for our tasting. We are guided to explore a museum-like large room in the upper level of the chateau, with exposed, rough hewn rock walls that seep with history. We later learn these stones were quarried by hand from the surrounding property.

We sit at a corner bar with beautifully polished wood and tall, comfy chairs. If I could imagine being royalty, this is probably as close to feeling like a princess and prince in our private tower.

We are soon joined by a couple from New Orleans, Emory and Carol. As we introduce ourselves, we learn they are on their honeymoon. We give them a thumbs up for so fortuitously choosing such a splendid location to celebrate. There is seating for eight, but today, it remains cozy with just the four of us. Breathing in the air of hushed history, in an almost reverential setting, the mood immediately brightens when the effervescent Barrie enters and starts pouring their 2022 Sauvignon Blanc.

This palatial estate is refreshingly modest, as Barrie explains the passion of winemaker Matt Crafton. Matt’s tasting notes sum up the winery’s outlook, “It’s what we consider in the expression of our Sauvignon Blanc, and really all of our wines. In a sea of sameness and tedium, driven by hot trends and top 10 lists, we simply make what we like. But here’s the key, drink what you like. It’s unpretentious and liberating to recognize that there’s no way anyone can tell you what you like is wrong. We trust our palates, trust yours.”

Having lived in many parts of the country, Barrie landed here by chance  and discovered the industry of wine tasting rooms. The career fits her like a fine Zinfandel in a decanter.

Barrie doesn’t just duly report each wine’s details and stats, she intertwines amusing stories about the beginnings of the chateau and how she ended up slinging wine to visitors.

Established in 1882, the chateau’s original name was A.L. Tubbs Winery. Mr. Tubbs had great success selling rope in San Francisco during the Gold Rush, headed north, founded the chateau and began planting grapevines.

Fast forward to 1972, when James Barrett took the reins, re-planted the estate vineyards, hired Mike Grgich as winemaker and introduced a more palatable name of Chateau Montelena, after the majestic topography of Mount Saint Helena, towering over the valley. 

The 2008 movie Bottle Shock walks viewers through the 1976 blind tasting in Paris, where a panel of esteemed French judges chose Chateau Montelena’s Chardonnay over their beloved Burgundy whites.

A coup of unimaginable proportions, not only did Chateau Montelena fall into the spotlight, but other Napa wineries shone brightly, including Stag’s Leap, whose Cabernet Sauvignon was awarded first place in the red wine category, above the best reds of Bordeaux.

We sit entranced by Barrie’s stories as she pours samples of liquid sunshine from the tasting menu. The 2021 Napa Valley Chardonnay is next and becomes my personal favorite. Just a few small sips are all I need to convince myself that I will not be leaving without a bottle to enjoy at home.

The 2021 Estate Zinfandel also ends up in my shopping bag! How do we say no to these finely crafted labors of love. 

Christian’s tastes run heavily red, and we are enchanted by both the 2019 Napa Valley and 2019 Estate Cabernet Sauvignons.

Living dangerously near the wine country, I have had the pleasure of visiting many wineries, and somehow, Chateau Montelena had escaped my detection until now. It has been worth the wait. My preference is visiting smaller family run wineries rather than corporate mega-vineyards. After 50 years of Barrett family ownership, their pride and passion shines brightly. 

Jim Barrett certainly would have been proud of his son Bo, who started at the winery at 18 as a “cellar rat”, worked his way to winemaker and currently takes the helm as CEO, carrying on his family’s legacy while keeping things beautifully low key.

A copy of an article from the Weekly Calistogan in 2013 is displayed on the wall with a quote from Bo, “We still make Zinfandel, we have 20 acres of vines, because we still have barbecues.” 

In 1976, George Taber, a journalist for Time magazine, stationed in Paris, was the only reporter covering the Judgement of Paris. He asked Jim Barrett how it felt to have Chateau Montelena’s Chardonnay capture first place, he humbly replied, “Not bad for kids from the sticks.”

We toast our final pour to Barrie, the honeymooners and to all the dedicated and enthusiastic winery workers who strive as a team to make liquid magic in a bottle.

Emerging to a gorgeous blue sky, we walk past the rustic chateau’s walls, barren of their summertime green ivy, and encounter the unusual juxtaposition of bright red asian style picnic pavilions and footbridges, nestled on a peaceful lake.

Upstairs, Barrie had told the story of the chateau’s second owners, Yort Wing Frank, a Chinese electrical engineer, and his wife Jeanie, who created Jade (Jeanie’s nickname) Lake as an homage to their homeland, and resided at the chateau for ten years. When the property came up for sale, the Barrett family continued the lineage of the property’s excellent location for wine growing, with a magical combination of ideal soils, coastal fog cooled nights and the sun’s warmth trapped in the valley of two mountain ranges.

We gaze upon Jade Lake as two luminous white swans drift by. We are thankful to have discovered this fairytale-like setting where Beijing meets Bordeaux.